Kyrgyzstan: a place of extremes

Known to some as the Switzerland of Central Asia, it should be clear from the start that mountains feature prominently in any scenic depiction of Kyrgyzstan. Georgie Archer recalls the views that left an imprint following her travels in Central Asia.

Bishkek, experienced during blistering summer temperatures, is a city that leaves lingering memories of heat, dust and smog. Potholes can burst tyres and end taxi rides, leading to long treks back home through torrential rainstorms. Once back at your apartment, you may be greeted by the enduring embrace of a stifling top floor Khrushchevka flat (Soviet apartment block) with no air conditioning.

This might leave you thinking that the Kyrgyz climate isn’t for the weak – but at least I could finally be grateful for a lack of hot water when seeking a convenient cooling method.

Kyrgyz cities exhibit a unique charm, but it’s the landscapes of this Central Asian country that really catch the eye, with mountains reaching up out of dusty plains into towering peaks capped with snow. To go from temperatures nearing 40 degrees celsius to frozen climes is baffling – but with the aid of a sturdy equine, or, in fact, a motor vehicle, one can easily navigate the varying environments on offer.

To appease a craving for the natural world when crammed into bustling urban environments, travelling to the countryside seems optimal. Journeys on public transport are noteworthy in themselves, for the use of marshrutkas (mini buses that function as shared taxis) is commonplace.

These buses suffer from a similar lack of air conditioning, and it is bad luck, according to the old ladies sitting in rickety bus seats, to open the windows. I wouldn’t have minded inciting the wrath of fate by opening them, but the thought of upsetting the other passengers was too much to bear. After traversing terrain that can only lightly be compared to a road, avoiding suspicious public toilets and keeping one’s seat bones intact, alighting from these vehicles after five or more hours is often a relief.

Reaching the comfort of mountains as they tower over the dusty red plains is liberating, their sight a joy to behold. As the skies open up above and billowing air sweeps down over the ground, it’s possible once more to take a deep breath. Walking from the barren corner where, after a period of pleading, the bus may consider stopping, an array of yurt camps awaits. Of course, one must pass by a friendly resident donkey and a herd of sheep on the way.

Bordering the second largest mountain lake in the world, which offers an inviting reprieve from the heat of a Kyrgyz summer, such camps offer a glimpse into a country adapting to new economic environments. Bel Tam, a female-led camp, represents the hospitable nature of the Kyrgyz people and the intuition of those working to innovate and build adaptable livelihoods.

Much is to be explored in the surrounding areas, with lush green mountains and friendly people living in similar yurts to those that host tourists in a huddle by the lake. The locals living between the mountainsides will even consider caring for a bag of “ashlyam-fu” soup (cold noodle soup native to Karakol) while its proprietors hike to a nearby waterfall, legend has it. My friends and I tested the old wives’ tale and found it to be true, even when we became waylaid and got lost on the steep mountain paths.

Near the Kungey Alatau of the Tian Shan mountains, the backdrop to the camp is extraordinary – especially when explored by hitch-hiking in an oil tanker or buddying up with tourists going to peek at the Chinese border and icy plateaus. I wouldn’t necessarily recommend such a method of transport, but it certainly provides entertainment and content for a good travel tale.

Scrambling up steep and narrow ascents that resemble the surface of Mars can also be achieved in the vicinity, although wandering carelessly around is to be discouraged due to the perilous nature of the slopes. A number of descents had to be made on all fours, or by sliding, but thankfully no limbs or extremities were injured.

When not swimming in the deliciously cool waters of the lake, there are stars to bewitch the eyes and tales to be told around campfires. A place of mesmerising peace, and a refuge from the bustling city of Bishkek, a yurt camp can offer solitude and connection – time to reflect, and time to meet fellow travellers.

Last but not least, a final note on mountains and snacks. A horse trek through the rugged Kyrgyz landscapes can only be complemented by the post-ride consumption of Kyrgyz delicacies, including boorsok, a type of fried dough that is easy to eat in large quantities. It must be noted, however, that it can upset the stomach to perform such tasks.

After all that, returning to the city can be a jarring experience –  the white-washed classroom walls in which I spent many hours offered little stimulation in comparison to the open embrace of the natural world.

All image credits: Georgie Archer

Featured image: Georgie Archer for Lossi 36